Solo Travel in Chhattisgarh: Exploring Waterfalls, Temples & Tribal Trails

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I started this journey with a mistake. Instead of checking better routes, I took a long train ride from Patna to Delhi and then boarded another to Raipur. Later, I found out there are direct trains from Vizag to Raipur. Even better, Jagdalpur has its own airport. Flights are cheap too, around ?3000. I could have skipped all the tiredness. But then again, I wouldn’t have had this version of the story. I didn’t expect much from solo travel in Chhattisgarh. It was one of those trips I took because I hadn’t ticked off this state yet. But right from the first day, the state surprised me. Forests, waterfalls, ancient temples, tribal markets, it had everything and in its own raw, grounded way.

Chhattisgarh is one of the newest states of India, formed in the year 2000 after being carved out of Madhya Pradesh. While it may not always be on the mainstream tourist map, its charm lies in how untouched and raw it feels.

What makes traveling in Chhattisgarh truly unique is its blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. There are towering waterfalls like Chitrakote and Tirathgarh while those who are interested in culture can attend tribal festivals and ancient rituals, the state offers a deep dive into India’s indigenous heritage. Its landscape is diverse, forests, hills, caves, and quiet villages are all for you to explore.

How to Reach

Chhattisgarh is more connected than people think, but you have to plan it smart. Raipur is the main entry point and is well-linked to most major Indian cities by flight and train. If you’re coming from the east coast, especially Vizag, there are direct trains to Raipur. I found this out too late. Would have saved me hours of train hopping.

If your plan is to explore Bastar, then Jagdalpur is a better base, and thankfully, it now has its own airport. Flights from Raipur and Vizag run regularly and usually cost around ?3000. Honestly, flying into Jagdalpur is better than taking overnight buses, which are often slow and bumpy. Within the state, shared cabs, autos, and local buses cover most routes. But be prepared for long road hours in some places.

Best Time to Visit

October to March is the best time to visit in Chattisgarh. The heat has subsided, and the forests are still lush from the rains. Waterfalls like Chitrakote and Tirathgarh are full and photogenic. October is also the time of Bastar Dushara which makes the experience of exploring Chattisgarh even better.

Monsoons (July to September) are dramatic. You can go to Chitrakote during pre monsoon or post monsoon but the prime monsoon season is not advisable for traveling.

April to June is perfect to visit high-altitude places. You can also explore the rest of the state if you only keep your movement limited around morning and evenings.

15 Day Chattisgarh Itinerary – How To Plan

Here’s a quick look at the route I followed during my solo trip across Chhattisgarh. This itinerary covers cultural heritage, waterfalls, forest reserves, tribal experiences, and quiet hill stations. It moves in a loop starting and ending at Raipur, with minimal backtracking.

Day 1–2: Arrive in Raipur and explore the city
Day 3: Day trip to Sirpur
Day 4: Visit Malhar and travel onward
Day 5–6: Base at Jagdalpur
Day 7: Chitrakote Waterfall and Sanjay Market
Day 8: Tirathgarh and Kanger Valley
Day 9: Dantewada and back to Jagdalpur
Day 10: Rest day in Jagdalpur
Day 11: Travel to Bhilai and explore cafés
Day 12: Bilaspur and day trip to Ratanpur
Day 13–14: Mainpat
Day 15: Chirimiri and return to Raipur

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Day 1–2: Raipur

Raipur felt like a city caught between industrial ambition and cultural identity. The first few hours were about getting oriented. One of the highlights was a visit to Mahant Ghasidas Museum. Inside were wooden totems, metalwork, and prehistoric tools.

Hotels in Raipur

• Sayaji Raipur
• Courtyard Raipur
• Chokhi Dhani Raipur

Day 3: Sirpur

A couple of hours from Raipur. Sirpur was calm. The brick temples have stood for centuries. The Laxman Temple stands without cement, just brick on brick. Around it, the Buddhist ruins add to the feeling that this was once a major settlement.

The Anand Prabhu Kuti Vihar had beautiful carvings. At one point, I stood alone inside the ancient monastery remains. No footsteps, no traffic. Just wind and carved bricks speaking softly of the past.

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Day 4: Malhar

Malhar is for those who enjoy archaeology and forgotten cities. The Pataleshwar Temple is partly in ruins. You’ll see carved panels, damaged pillars, and a few local kids running around. It doesn’t feel like a tourist site.

There’s a small museum that displays sculptures and tools found during excavation. The town has an air of something that mattered once.

Day 5: Jagdalpur

Jagdalpur worked as my base for Bastar. The town has a casual rhythm. Jagdalpur has a replica of Danteshwari Temple from Dantewada. You can also explore Dalpat Sagar Lake and local markets. Basically people come here to explore the waterfalls and national parks as it serves as an ideal resting spot with good hotels and restaurants.

Hotels in Jagdalpur

• Hotel Aradhya International

Day 6: Chitrakote Waterfall and Sanjay Market

We drove early to Chitrakote Waterfall. You can hear it before you see it. The waterfall is huge, shaped like a horseshoe. Mist rises even from a distance. I stood near the rocks, soaked within minutes.

The boat ride was rough but worth it. The guide didn’t speak much, but his smile said everything.

On the way back, I stopped at Sanjay Market. This is where I had red ant chutney for the first time. It’s made from actual red ants. They’re crushed and mixed with spices. The taste is hard to describe—acidic, pungent, and sharp. You’ll find tribal tools, handwoven fabrics, and forest produce. This stop made the day even better.

Day 7: Tirathgarh and Kanger Valley

Tirathgarh was less dramatic than Chitrakote but equally photogenic. Water falls in steps. There’s greenery all around. I climbed down closer to the base and sat near the stream.

Later, we entered Kanger Valley National Park. The park is full of sal trees. Inside, the Kotumsar caves are a major draw. It’s dark, humid, and surreal. Stalactites hang from above. It’s like entering the earth itself.

Day 8: Dantewada and Back to Jagdalpur

The main attraction is the Danteshwari Temple. It’s clean and deeply spiritual. Locals offer prayers with flowers and dried coconut. The temple is small in size but large in energy.

I sat near the gate and just observed the rituals. There’s no rush. No shouting priests. Just a quiet devotion.

Day 9 and 10: Bhilai

Once you complete Jagdalpur belt, you can head to Bhilai. This is one of the biggest cities in the state and ideal for those who want to see a cosmopolitan side of Chattisgarh. There is nothing much to see in the town but you can keep these days for rest and then planning ahead. There are some nice cafes in Bhilai to try. The city itself has a lake, some forest trails and waterfalls that you can go on lazy day tours when you dont want to do much.

At Gablooz Café on Junwani Road, I found cozy corners, wood-fired bites, and some solid comfort food. Ideal for unwinding with a cup of coffee.

The 90s Café, Chapter 1 served nostalgia. Cassettes as tissue holders, retro music, and a menu packed with Chinese, continental, and junk food classics. It’s the kind of place where you order fries and end up staying for dessert.

You can also visit Nukkad Café, where the staff are differently abled. You write down your order on paper.

Hotels in Bhilai

• Amantran
• Apna Kesari Lodge
• Bhilai Hill Lodge

Day 11: Bilaspur (Ratanpur and Kutaghat Dam)

Bilaspur brought together history, mythology, and unexpected landscapes.

My first stop was Ratanpur, around 20 km from the city. The ruins of Ratanpur Fort are easy to miss if you’re not looking. The fort was likely built during King Ratnadeva I’s rule. It sits on a plateau, not a hilltop, which is unusual for forts in India. The main gates, Simha Dwar and Ganesh Dwar, still stand. A statue of Lord Ganesh guards the entrance.

Just a few minutes from the fort is Mahamaya Temple, one of the most sacred sites in the region. It’s believed to be a Shaktipeeth where Goddess Sati’s right shoulder fell. There’s a pond at the back and nearby, a pair of twin temples called Kanti Deul, reconstructed by the ASI.

On the way to Ratanpur lies Kutaghat Dam, built on the Kharung River. It’s a favourite picnic spot. The garden and rest house nearby are clean and scenic. From here we returned to Bilaspur for the day.

Read More: A Visit to Mysterious Kuldhara Village

Day 12 – Bilaspur (Malhar and Talagaon)

Another spot we visited was Malhar, just 30 km away. It’s known for archaeological finds, especially temples from the 10th and 11th centuries. I stopped at the Dindeshwari and Pataleshwari Temples and walked around broken lintels and stepped platforms.

From there, we drove to Talagaon to see the Devrani-Jethani Temples. These twin temples were built for the wives of two royal brothers. Made from red sandstone, it combines animal elements, peacock ears, crab chin, snake headgear, elephant arms. Each detail represents an astrological sign.

You can also visit Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary, part of the larger Achanakmar–Amarkantak Biosphere Reserve. But it requires one full day and I was short on time so I skipped the place.

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Day 13–14: Mainpat

Mainpat was a surprise. Green hills, cool air, and Tibetan prayer flags flapping in the middle of Chhattisgarh. Locals call it the Shimla or Mini Switzerland of the state. I visited Takpo Monastery which is made by Tibetan refugees. You can try butter tea and Tibetan momo here.

At Jaljali, the earth has a texture that bounces when you jump on it. Ultapani and Magnetic Hill are two spots where you’ll notice cars rolling uphill, water flowing backward.

Mainpat is a thriving tourist destination with luxury camping available if you want to stay in the night close to nature.

Day 15: Chirimiri

Chirimiri was peaceful. It was a coal mining town that is now visited for its hill station vibes. There is a Lord Jagannath Temple, a clean white replica of Puri’s Jagannath Temple. I also hiked to Amrit Dhara Falls. Chirimiri is a nice place to unwind and experience bliss. If you are expecting sightseeing then I am afraid you wont find much.

Bastar Dussehra: A Festival Like No Other

If you time your visit right, October brings with it the unmatched energy of Bastar Dussehra. Unlike the Ramayana-based Dussehra celebrated in other parts of India, this one has its own soul, rooted in tribal traditions, sacred rituals, and the living legacy of Bastar’s royal family.

It’s not a one-day event. Bastar Dussehra runs for 75 days, making it the longest-running festival in the world. But the final 10 days are when Jagdalpur turns into a vibrant, surreal celebration. During my stay, I kept returning to the town to witness its rituals. Everything seemed to come alive. During the festival the city lights up, people dressed in tribal finery, and a grand wooden chariot being pulled through the streets.

A more detailed post on Bastar Dussehra is coming soon. You won’t want to miss it.

Traveling through Chhattisgarh reminded me that you don’t always need glossy travel brochures or picture-perfect itineraries to fall in love with a place. You just need to show up with curiosity, patience, and respect.

If you decide to follow this route, do it with care. Respect local customs, support local artisans and markets, and avoid leaving behind waste—especially in fragile natural and tribal areas. Many of these places still remain untouched by mass tourism. Let’s do our bit to keep them that way.

If this itinerary inspired you or you have any questions about traveling in Chhattisgarh, I’d love to hear from you.

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FAQs About Traveling in Chhattisgarh

1. Is Chhattisgarh safe for solo travelers?
Yes, I travelled solo across Chhattisgarh without any issues. Most locals were kind and helpful. Just follow basic precautions like you would anywhere.

2. What is the best time to visit Chhattisgarh?
The best time is between October and March when the weather is pleasant and waterfalls like Chitrakote and Tirathgarh are full. October also aligns with the incredible Bastar Dussehra.

3. How can I reach Jagdalpur?
Jagdalpur now has its own airport, and flights from Raipur are usually around ?3000. It’s a much better option than overnight buses. There are direct overnight trains from different parts of India that you can catch if you want to skip Raipur.

4. Are there direct trains to Raipur from the east coast?
Yes. I found out too late, but there are direct trains from Vizag to Raipur that could have saved me a long detour through Delhi.

5. What is Bastar Dussehra and how is it different?
Bastar Dussehra is a 75-day tribal festival that honors Goddess Danteshwari. It’s rooted in local rituals and doesn’t follow the Ramayana narrative like mainstream Dussehra celebrations.

6. Which places are a must-visit in Bastar?
Chitrakote Waterfall, Tirathgarh Falls, Kanger Valley National Park, and Danteshwari Temple in Dantewada are all worth your time. Don’t miss Sanjay Market for a taste of red ant chutney and tribal shopping.

7. Is Chhattisgarh touristy or offbeat?
It’s still offbeat, which makes it great for those looking to avoid crowded destinations. You won’t find big resorts, but that’s what makes the experience feel grounded and real.

8. What’s unique about Mainpat?
Mainpat has Tibetan monasteries, a bouncing land area called Jaljali, and even a Magnetic Hill where water appears to flow uphill. It’s like a quieter version of Ladakh tucked inside central India.

9. Can I cover everything in 15 days?
Yes. My route was loop-based, starting and ending in Raipur, covering cultural sites, waterfalls, markets, and even hill stations like Mainpat and Chirimiri.

10. What should I pack for Chhattisgarh?
Sturdy shoes, light cottons for the day, a light jacket for hill stations, and a raincoat if you’re visiting during monsoons. And always carry cash in smaller towns.