Siem Reap to Don Det: Crossing the Cambodia-Laos Border Overland

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I had been planning this border crossing since 2020. But then the world shut down, borders closed, and travel plans were shelved indefinitely. It wasn’t until early 2024 that I finally found myself at a familiar backpacker hub in Siem Reap, ready to set out on this journey from Cambodia to Laos by land.

For many travelers, flying from Siem Reap to Laos seems convenient at first. But flights are expensive, and they skip everything in between. Border crossings offer something else entirely. You get to witness the shift in language, food, road conditions, and landscape. The roughness is part of the experience. If you’re into overland backpacking and slow travel, this route from Siem Reap to Don Det is a rite of passage.

How to Reach Don Det from Siem Reap

I booked the journey with Sarah Travels. They picked me up from Siem Reap at 8 AM and everything after that was included — multiple vans, border crossing, and the boat to Don Det.

I spent an evening before enjoying a show of Apsara Dancing and learning more about Cambodian culture up close.

The sequence went like this:

• Siem Reap to the Cambodian border
• Border crossing on foot
• A van pickup from the Laos side to Champasak
• Boat ride from Champasak to Don Det

We reached Don Det around 6 PM. The whole journey was long but smooth, with minimal waiting time. No last-minute surprises, no missed connections.

Watch the video here for a look at the full route:

Visa for Indian Travelers

For Indian passport holders, Laos offers visa on arrival at this border. But here’s what you need to know:

• E-visa is not accepted at the Cambodia–Laos land border
• Bring two passport-sized photos
• The official visa fee is around $35, but a $5 “processing” fee is usually expected
• I paid $40 in total

Keep your USD notes in crisp, clean condition. Torn or marked bills may be rejected.

Avoid This Common Currency Scam

Right before reaching the border, our driver insisted we change money at a roadside stall. The exchange rate was terrible and the commission was worse.

I decided to wait.

At the Don Det boat station, I found an exchange office with a far better rate and lower commission. If you’re on a backpacking budget, wait until you get there. It saves you real money.

What to Expect at the Border

This is not a modern immigration center. It’s a dusty road with two separate checkpoints on either side.

Here’s the step-by-step process:

1. Exit Cambodia — You walk up to the counter, fill out a departure card, and pay a $2 “exit stamp fee.”
2. Walk about 300 meters across no-man’s-land.
3. Enter Laos — Fill out two forms, hand over your photo, and pay the visa fee.

It’s straightforward but not very official in feel. You just go along with it. If you’re polite and prepared, it takes about 40 minutes in total.

Arriving in Don Det

After crossing the Laos border, we were picked up by another minibus. This ride took us to a riverside area in Champasak. From there, we hopped on a narrow boat that took us across the Mekong to Don Det.

By now the sun was setting. We arrived just before 6 PM. There was a Beerlao stand right near the boat dock and I remember thinking — this was worth every dusty mile.

Where to Stay in Don Det

If you are doing solo travel in Laos, Don Det is perfect for a few slow days.

The island is small, walkable, and peaceful. There are basic riverside bungalows, most with hammocks and sunset views. Backpacker guesthouses are plenty, and if you want to stay longer, most places offer weekly deals.

This is one of the best places to visit in Laos if you’re just starting your journey across the country.

Best Time to Visit

• November to March is dry season. Roads are better and the river is calm.
• Avoid June to September as monsoon rains can delay transfers and make boat rides more difficult.

The border is only open from 8 AM to 5 PM, so plan your travel accordingly.

Local Tips from My Experience

• Carry exact change in USD. Officials rarely give change back.
• Do not exchange currency at the border stalls. Wait until the boat station.
• Bring your own snacks and water. There may be long stretches without stops.
• Have a copy of your travel insurance and yellow vaccination card, just in case.
• Keep your passport in your hands, not with unofficial “helpers.”

If you’re traveling alone, don’t worry. The route is well-used by other travelers and there’s always someone to share information or snacks with.

Going Beyond Don Det

If Don Det is your starting point for traveling in Laos, be prepared for long distances ahead. The bus to Vientiane takes around 16 hours from Don Det, and most travelers break the journey in Pakse or Savannakhet.

It’s better to move slowly through southern Laos. Rush, and you’ll miss the charm.

You can later choose shared transfers between Vientiane and Vang Vieng with Klook.

Final Thoughts

This border crossing from Siem Reap to Don Det had been on my list for years. Doing it overland felt like completing a backpacker milestone. It wasn’t always comfortable, but it was real. There was no airport lounge or priority boarding — just open roads, border dust, small boats, and curious travelers.

If you love slow journeys and want to see how Cambodia fades into Laos, this is the way to do it. You’ll save money, meet fellow travelers, and get stories that no direct flight can give you.

Follow me on Instagram @daily.passenger and YouTube @DailyPassenger for more details.