Ruins fascinate me. Their history, the people who lived there, their beliefs, their art, culture, their life, and their ultimate downfall—they all tell stories etched in stone and silence. When a fellow traveller at my hostel in the fort town of Jaisalmer mentioned a haunted village nearby, how could I resist?
While in Jaisalmer, I heard about the ruins of Kuldhara and knew I couldn’t leave without visiting it. That night, at 8 PM, my hostelmates and I decided to visit the village “illegally”. Illegally because you are not allowed to go there after sunset but people do and so did we. We called the auto-rickshaw driver parked just outside our hostel. He seemed confused by our odd request at such an hour: “You want to go to Kuldhara? At night? Are you sure?” We settled with a plan, the auto driver was happy that he is making money outside his working hours too. Moments later, we were riding alongside a deserted road under the starry Rajasthan sky towards Kuldhara.
The Legend of Kuldhara
Two hundred years ago, the Paliwal Brahmins of Kuldhara vanished without a trace. In the dead of night, all 1,000 residents of this once-thriving village—and the people of 83 surrounding villages—abandoned their homes and livelihoods. Legend has it that Zalim Singh, the powerful and corrupt minister of Jaisalmer, demanded to marry the village chief’s daughter, threatening dire consequences if his wish was not fulfilled. Faced with oppression, the villagers fled under the cover of darkness, leaving behind a curse that no one would ever be able to settle in Kuldhara again.
The legend of Kuldhara’s haunting has intrigued filmmakers, inspiring movies like Kuldhara and 1920: The Evil Returns. Tourists, drawn by its eerie reputation, visit its crumbling homes and temples, hoping that they get a ghost sighting. The journey to Kuldhara itself is nice—a smooth road winding through barren scrubland, flanked by thorny bushes and makeshift shelters patched with blue plastic sheets and dry stone walls. When I went there, some road construction was going on and these makeshift houses probably belonged to the labours working there.
Restoration of Kuldhara
In 1998, Kuldhara’s fate took a turn when two foreigners were caught looting gold and silver artifacts from the abandoned village. Their arrest brought Kuldhara back into the spotlight, prompting the local authorities and the Archaeological Survey of India to take action. Soon restoration and promotion of this place started and Kuldhara became one of the most popular places to visit in Jaisalmar.
Security guards were stationed, an imposing entrance archway was constructed, and overgrown vegetation was cleared. Select houses were restored, and the temple was made partially functional. Works are still going on. I have been to Kuldhara thrice and I have observed the changes that are so significant that it has almost lost its original appeal that there was in the beginning.
Other Significant Ruins of Kuldhara Village
Beyond its haunting legend, Kuldhara’s ruins hold architectural and historical significance. The village layout includes wide streets and intricately designed houses. The remains of the stepwell or Bawdi, an ingenious water harvesting structure, showcase the community’s expertise in water management.
The temple dedicated to Lord Shiva though weathered, its carvings and layout still reflect the artistic sensibilities of its creators. Lately some houses have been restored and a cafe is also operating there.
Is Kuldhara Really Haunted?
Those who visit Kuldhara often claim to feel an certain strangeness—a sense of being watched or an unsettling quiet is pretty noticeable. Personally, even though I visited the village at night, I felt more concerned about scorpions and snakes than ghosts. Still, the eerie atmosphere is undeniable, especially in the re-built house with dark rooms, and small alcoves where butter lamps once flickered. You’ll notice inky shadows playing against the walls and the evening breeze stirring up dust and twigs, making you anticipate something is just up the corner but it is not.
Local belief holds that the spirits of the Paliwal villagers still reside in the ruins, and attempting to settle there would invite a curse. While I cannot question these beliefs, the village’s desolation continues to fuel its haunted reputation. Since 2015, the Rajasthan government has invested heavily in Kuldhara. Projects include night-stay cottages, a multi-cuisine café, a lounge, and cultural spaces for folk performances. With refurbished temples and rebuilt houses, Kuldhara is slowly finding a new identity, blending its haunting past with a promising future.
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