Bisket Jatra - A Unique Perspective Of Nepali New Year

The culture of Nepal has always fascinated me. The various communities that live there come with a rich history that reflects everywhere you go. When you visit Bhaktapur, this uniqueness intensifies, as it is the home of the Newari people.

I have been to Nepal 4 or 5 times considering the border is on the other side of Bihar, where I live. However, despite numerous visits, I had never witnessed the grand scale of Nepalese festivals firsthand.

Jatras, or festivals, are common throughout Nepal, but the truly grand celebrations occur on specific dates, which had always eluded my travels. That changed when I learned about Bisket Jatra of Bhaktapur. Celebrated by the Newari people, Bisket Jatra takes place on the first day of their New Year. This information was enough to plan a trip to Nepal but it took almost a two-year wait until I could finally experience the festival in person.

For me, attending Bisket Jatra was not just about witnessing a festival like I have done with Aoleang and Wangala. It was also about experiecing the cultural richness and traditions that define Nepal.

Culture of the Newari People and Its Significance in Bhaktapur

The Newari people, renowned for their vibrant culture and deep-rooted traditions. Their presence has played a pivotal role in shaping the cultural landscape of Bhaktapur.

As one of the largest ethnic groups in Nepal, the Newars have preserved their language, art forms, and architectural styles for centuries. In Bhaktapur, their presence is evident in the wood carvings of temples, the layout of ancient courtyards, and the craftsmanship seen in every detail of daily life.

Bisket Jatra is important to the culture of the Newari people in Bhaktapur. This annual festival not only marks the beginning of their New Year but also serves as a time-honored occasion to celebrate community unity.

The Mythology Behind Bisket Jatra

According to the mythology surrounding Bisket Jatra, there are two prominent legends that add depth to the festival’s significance. One story recounts a princess who, afflicted by a curse, emitted two serpents from her nostrils when she sneezed. These serpents threatened anyone who slept with her, until a skilled tantric practitioner finally subdued and killed them. Learning of this, the king raised two long flags on a towering wooden pole called Yoshin. This pole symbolized the victory over the serpents and the protection of the kingdom.

Another mythological tale linked to Bisket Jatra is based on the divine union of Lord Bhairab and Goddess Bhadrakali. During the festival, chariots bearing the idols of these deities are paraded through Bhaktapur’s streets. On the day marking the beginning of the New Year, these chariots are intentionally collided, symbolizing the union of the divine couple and the renewal of cosmic balance and fertility.

The Elaborate Rituals of Bisket Jatra

Four days before the New Year begins, the village divides into two rival zones. Each team attempts to pull the chariot carrying the image of Bhairab from the Bhairab Temple in Taumadhi Square. The victorious zone in this tug of war assumes the responsibility of caring for the deity’s image until the next year.

Two days later, amidst fervent anticipation, the chariot carrying Bhairab’s image is ceremoniously pulled back to Taumadhi Square, specifically to a location known as Gahiti. Here, amid the gathering of people from across the district, animal sacrifices take place as offerings to the deity. The sacrifices range from large cows to small chickens or even eggs. It symbolizes a sacrificial ritual that dates back centuries.

On the final day of the year, the centerpiece of the festival culminates in the raising of the towering wooden pole, known as Yoshin Khel, measuring approximately 108 meters in height. This ritual signifies the pinnacle of community spirit and celebration, with crowds gathering to witness and participate in the uplifting of the pole, an act that symbolizes unity and spiritual renewal.

The climax of Bisket Jatra occurs when the chariots carrying the idols of Bhairab and Bhadrakali are deliberately made to collide with each other. This collision, conducted amidst great passion and joy, symbolizes the divine union of the two deities, believed to bring blessings of fertility, prosperity, and harmony to the community for the upcoming year. These rituals not only preserve ancient traditions but also reaffirm the cultural identity and spiritual beliefs of the Newari people in Bhaktapur.

Bisket Jatra on Final Day 5

On the evening of the fifth day of Bisket Jatra, the atmosphere in Bhaktapur’s Lyansinkhel Square becomes electrifying. Drum beats mixed with sounds of traditional music makes the atmosphere lively. Right at this place the chariots carrying the revered idols of Bhairab and Bhadrakali are displayed. The chariots are adorned with decorations in style of Newari artworks.

It’s important to note that Bisket Jatra includes rituals such as animal sacrifices. These are part of Newari traditions. This aspect of the festival is integral to local beliefs and may not align with the preferences or values of visitors, particularly those from different cultural backgrounds or dietary practices so I would suggest that you stay away from the processions and enjoy the touristy side of Kathmandu.

At midnight on the fifth day, the chariots of Bhairab and Bhadrakali are ceremoniously collided together, symbolizing the divine union of the deities. This ritual, celebrated with great reverence and enthusiasm, showcases the Newari community’s unique perspective on the sacredness of life’s cycles.

Amidst the festive fervor, the crowded streets around the chariots can pose risks, with incidents of people getting injured. Finding a safe vantage point is essential for witnessing the festivities while ensuring personal safety. I found a small lane from where the chariot pulling was visible but soon that too got crowded. I saw the chariot getting stuck for a while and it took a great deal of effort to get it going again. Soon the chariot moved to next part of Bhaktapur and the area cleared.

A Sureal Experience of Nepali New Year

Bisket Jatra lasts for five days, marking the beginning of Nepal’s New Year celebrations. Total days of celebrations span between 8 to 10 days. There are a number of festivals and events being celebrated in various parts of Nepal. For those planning an extended festival tour of Nepal, these experiences promise to keep you busy.

Additionally, the Fewa Lake Festival in Pokhara is also held during this period. Personally, I also had the opportunity to attend another festival the following day, which I’ll write about in my next blog post.

More Photos of Bisket Jatra