Festivals in India are my favorite way to travel. I love exploring these festivals to delve deeper into India’s diverse culture. These experiences allow me to truly absorb the essence of local traditions. During one of these trips, I got a chance to attend Bonalu in the lovely city of Hyderabad.
It is one of the grandest celebrations in Hyderabad. Bonalu holds a special place in the hearts of both locals and travelers like me. The month of July becomes a kaleidoscope of colors and customs as the city comes alive with this magnificent event. What makes Bonalu truly unique is its dynamic nature – it doesn’t just happen on a single day. Instead, every weekend of the month witnesses a new jatra or procession in different corners of Hyderabad in the areas where the temples of Mahakali are situated.
History and Significance of Bonalu Festival
Bonalu is an annual festival that pays homage to the goddess Mahakali. With origins tracing back to the 19th century, it began as a ritualistic offering to appease the goddess and protect against diseases and calamities. Today, Bonalu is a splendid blend of devotion, culture, and community spirit. There are many stories that talk about origin of Bonalu. Two main ones are the following
First story talks about a plague in Hyderabad region in 19th Century. This plague caused immense suffering and death. Panic and desperation gripped the population as the disease showed no signs of relenting. Amid this turmoil, a group of villagers turned to their local goddess Mahakali, seeking her divine intervention to rid them of the plague’s wrath. Following this, a woman from the village had a vision of Goddess Mahakali in her dreams. She instructed her to offer rice cooked with jaggery and curd in an earthen pot and offer the goddess. The villagers followed her guidance, and the plague began to subside gradually. In gratitude for the goddess’s mercy, they started offering this special dish annually, marking the beginning of the Bonalu Festival. This tradition of offering ‘Bonalu’ – rice, jaggery, and curd – as a symbol of thanksgiving and devotion to the goddess continues to this day, reminding the community of the power of faith and the goddess’s blessings.
The second story is also rooted in a great plague. Here, Goddess Mahakali appeared in the dreams of a temple priest. She commanded him to perform special rituals and offer a sacred feast as a mark of their devotion. The priest followed the divine instructions, organizing processions, dances, and rituals to appease the goddess. Miraculously, the epidemic began to recede, and the village was saved from further devastation.
Best Time to Attend Bonalu
The ideal time to experience the vibrant Bonalu Festival in Hyderabad is during the month of July. This is when the city comes alive with the festivities. Throughout the month, each weekend witnesses different corners of Hyderabad hosting the jatra and you need to find the area where you can see one.
Attending Bonalu Festival – Best Time and Tips
Bonalu festival is accompanied with Jatras. The Jatra time table is typically released a month in advance, and the first Jatra, hosted at the iconic Golconda Fort, is a highlight that should not be missed.
This initial Jatra sets the stage for the entire festival. For the subsequent Jatras in different corners of Hyderabad, staying informed about the routine becomes essential, as the timings and locations vary.
The Jatras commence at around 8 AM and continue until 6 PM and sometimes even late. If you’re looking to capture the best moments and photographs, arriving early is key. As the day progresses, the crowd grows, making it a bit challenging to find a clear view. It’s during the early hours that you can truly absorb the energy, colors, and rituals that define the Bonalu Festival.
During the Jatras, it’s important to note that the roads leading to the temples are very crowded, so you won’t be able to venture onto those paths. It is a better idea to stay on the outskirts of the procession route. The main road provides a fantastic vantage point to witness the processions.
Highlights of Bonalu Festival and Jatra
Colorful Costumes
The Bonalu Festival is a visual spectacle, with pilgrims adorning themselves in a riot of vibrant hues. Their costumes, coupled with intricate face paints, create a kaleidoscope of colors that adds to the festive atmosphere. The streets come alive with a vibrant and joyous energy as devotees clad in their finest attire pay homage to the goddess.
Teenmar Dance
One of the most captivating aspects of the Bonalu Jatras is the Teenmar Dance. The rhythm of the drums, coupled with the coordinated movements of dancers, resembles the lively dance sequences seen in regional films. This energetic and rhythmic dance form adds an exuberant touch to the festivities, inviting everyone to join in the celebration.
Eclectic Music
The festival’s musical landscape is a blend of traditional and modern beats, creating a symphony that resonates with the heart of Hyderabad. Traditional instruments harmonize with contemporary tunes, infusing the air with an infectious energy that encourages spontaneous dancing and joyous celebrations.
Bonalu Preparation
If you have the chance and local connections, don’t miss the opportunity to witness the meticulous preparation that goes into the Bonalu offerings. From cooking the special ‘Bonalu’ dish to decorating the pots and arranging offerings, being a part of this behind-the-scenes process provides a deeper insight into the festival’s rituals and traditions.
Pothuraju
Amid the procession, you’ll encounter the awe-inspiring figures of Pothuraju, the fierce and protective brothers of Goddess Mahakali. Adorned in traditional warrior attire, these devotees represent the goddess’s guardians, adding a powerful and symbolic element to the Bonalu Jatra. Their presence evokes both awe and respect, underscoring the festival’s deep-rooted spiritual significance.
Ending Thoughts
Bonalu is a very unique festival of India. While the photos and videos will charm you, it is also essential to remember that we are guests in a sacred celebration deeply cherished by the local community. While capturing the moments and experiencing the festivities, it’s important to respect the devotees and their customs.
When you are attending the festival, make sure that you wear comfortable clothes, have running or walking shoes and lots of water because the sun will be bright and extremely hot. Keep yourself comfortable and experience the best of Bonalu Jatra in the lovely city of Hyderabad.
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