My introduction to Unakoti happened during the time when DD National used to air Surbhi. I feel most of the traveller of my generation saw this place on the said TV show. I won’t say it was only my Wishlist since then but it became a part of it when traveling because easy in North East India.
Today, talking about traveling in Tripura will be incomplete without Unakoti. The name that means “one less than a crore” in Bengali, is a place shrouded in mystery. Nestled amidst the captivating landscapes of Jampui Hills of Tripura, it is home to an ancient rock-cut sculpture site. There are intricate carvings of gods, goddesses, and mythical creatures, telling stories related to Hindu mythology and is worth exploring.
Unakoti is a unique destination where legends come to life through the bas reliefs that are spread across the rocky landscape. Each intricately carved sculpture seems to be weaving together a tapestry of folklore. Unakoti is not just a collection of stone carvings; it’s a portal to a realm where history and imagination become one, leaving you in awe of its timeless beauty.
What are Bas Reliefs
You’ll find a number of bas reliefs in Unakoti, Tripura. Bas reliefs are sculptures or carvings that are created on a flat surface, such as a wall or rock, with the figures and forms projecting slightly from the background. In Unakoti, these bas reliefs bring the ancient stories and folklore to life, adding a sense of depth and artistic beauty to the site.
Reaching Unakoti
If you’re a budget traveller like me going on a solo adventure in Tripura, you’d prefer a local transport mode to reach here. Thankfully, Unakoti is well connected and you can reach easily from Silchar, Guwahati and Agartala.
Train is the most convenient option to reach Unakoti. From Agartala, you’ll need to catch a train to Dharamnagar, that I unfortunately missed. Instead, I took a bus from Agartala to Kailashahar, which proved to be a bumpy ride under the extreme April heat. The bus dropped me in Kailashahar.
When you are in Kailashahar, you can start your next phase of journey to Unakoti by hiring an auto rickshaw. It is an expensive but convenient option. The two side journey cost me around 1500 rs. in total. In hindsight, I realized that making different decisions could have led me to Unakoti in a more cost-effective manner.
Alternatively, if you’re traveling by train, you can opt to get down at Dharamnagar or Kumarghat, both of which are closer to Unakoti.
Dharamnagar is also the first train station when you arrive Tripura from Assam. Instead of going all the way to Agartala and then traveling back, you can start your Tripura backpacking trip from Dharamnagar and then travel further.
History of Unakoti
Unakoti’s history is shrouded in mystery. There is very little documentation available about its origins. During my visit, I spoke to two guides. They both has a different story, adding to the enigma surrounding this ancient site. It is known that Kailashahar, the town closest to Unakoti, held significant importance in ancient times. It was the capital of ancient Tripura region that also included some parts of Bangladesh.
I noticed an abundance of Shiva statues in Unakoti. It led me to believe that it could be linked to communities that worship Lord Shiva. In my personal theory, I think that a migrating Shaivite community might have settled here and created these rock-cut sculptures. Perhaps, when the resources depleted, or circumstances changed, they moved on to another place, leaving these statues behind.
The lack of concrete historical records allow visitors like me to add some imagination and contemplate our own stories. Unakoti remains a testament to the passage of time and the indomitable spirit of those who once called it home.
Mythological Stories Behind Unakoti
Unakoti, one of the best places to visit in Tripura, is steeped in captivating mythological stories. There are many mythological stories associated with it. The first and most popular stories sugges that these sculptures were created by Lord Shiva himself and his divine entourage. He stopped to rest here while traveling to Kashi. However, as dawn broke, they left, but one of them failed to wake up, resulting in the “one less than a crore” (Unakoti) sculptures that we see today. Another story suggests that a local sculptor made a pact with the gods to create these sculptures, but he failed to complete the task, leading to his tragic demise.
Notable Deities at Unakoti
When you enter Unakoti, you come across a large face of Lord Shiva. From here, you can walk in multiple direction but I walked towards the Dhaluchhora mountain stream. It was almost dry during the summer season, but in monsoon season, the water falls directly on Ganesha’s head below.
A bas-relief structure of Lord Ganesha sits right below the waterfall. It is intricately carved and represents this beloved deity. From here, you’ll see the Chaaturmukhalinga Kalyansundaramurty, symbolizing Lord Shiva’s cosmic dance. Next comes a 30 feet high Unakotishwara Kal Bhairava and a sculpture of Nandi, the loyal bull and vehicle of Lord Shiva.
Are there One Crore Deities in Unakoti?
While the name “Unakoti” translates to “one less than a crore,” the exact count of deities at the site remains uncertain. Though there are numerous sculptures and bas-reliefs, the total number does not reach one crore. Nevertheless, the sheer abundance of intricately carved figures and the mystical ambiance make Unakoti a captivating destination for spiritual seekers and curious explorers alike.
Stay Options Near Unakoti
For a comfortable stay near Unakoti, the Tripura Government Tourist Lodge (Unakoti Tourist Lodge) in Kailashahar is a recommended option. Located in close proximity to the site, it offers convenient accommodation with basic amenities. It serves as an ideal base for exploring Unakoti and its surrounding attractions, providing a pleasant and hassle-free experience for travelers.
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